Tlaxcala is the smallest state in Mexico, nestled in the heart of the country. But despite its size, it boasts a rich history, vibrant culture, and stunning natural beauty.
During pre-Hispanic times, indigenous Tlaxcalans were a fiercely independent people who successfully resisted the Aztec Empire.
In 1519, the Tlaxcalteca people allied with Hernán Cortés, ultimately leading to the Aztec Empire’s fall. As a result of this allegiance, to this day, there is still a sentiment in Mexico that Tlaxcala betrayed the rest of the country.
But this light animosity mostly manifests as silly jokes, pointing at Tlaxcala’s small size and internet memes claiming that the state’s very existence is just a tongue and cheek conspiracy theory.
Tlaxcala is home to many pre-Hispanic archaeological sites, but the most visited by far Xochitécatl-Cacaxtla, which first rose to power in the 3rd century B.C.E.
Aside from its massive structures and breathtakingly beautiful vistas, Xochitécatl-Cacaxtla boasts a rather out-of-place feature — Maya murals.
It has been widely speculated that Xochitécatl-Cacaxtla may have been established by either Maya or Olmec peoples, displaced from their own faraway cities. This hypothesis makes a good deal of sense when analyzing the art and architecture of the city, but otherwise has no data to back it up. That said, there is good evidence for the existence of Maya settlements in Central Mexico, as is the example of Maya neighborhoods in Teotihuacán.
The state capital, Tlaxcala de Xicohténcatl, has a population of just under 100,000, giving it a real small-town feel.
One of the highlights of the city is the Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Tlaxcala church, which is accessible through a gorgeous adobe street and belongs to the larger former convent of San Francisco.
Tlaxcala is also a bit of an oddball in that despite its size, it is home to a wide array of ecosystems, including dense forests and a small desert, complete with dunes.
Despite being right next to the state of Puebla, which is known for its excellent gastronomy, Tlaxcala is no slouch in that department, either. It even has a similar take on mole.
But where the strength of Tlaxcala’s cuisine truly excels is in the freshness of its ingredients, including the wide variety of types of corn produced locally.
Some of the most renowned restaurants in Tlaxcala include Mexko and Meson de los Reyes Val´Quirico. But if you are looking for something a little more down-to-earth, there is nothing like a good traditional huitlacoche or pepita quesadilla.
If you go
Independently owned hotels in the highly regarded Tesoros Experiences family include El Molino de los Reyes Boutique Hotel, Villa Toscana, and Hacienda Soltepec.
Getting to Tlaxcala is easiest from Puebla or Mexico City, with the trip by land roughly taking an hour or two respectively, under light traffic conditions.
