Aerial view of the ruins of Yaxuná’s ballcourt in the central acropolis. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
With a population of just over 600 people, it’s hard to think of a community in Yucatán that punches as high above its weight class as Yaxuná.
In Yucatec-Maya, Yaxuná translates as “turquoise house” or sometimes as “first house.” Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The town is well known for several things, including the Amazonas, its women’s softball team famous for the fact that they play barefoot and wear the traditional Mestizo huipil, as well as the cooking of Chef Rosalia Chay featured on Netflix’s Chef’s Table. The town is also known for its local seed bank, the refreshing Lol-Ha Cenote, and, of course, its magnificent Maya ruins.
Disheveled signs point the way to Yaxuná through Yucatán’s countryside on the toll-free Mérida – Cancún highway. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The archaeological site of Yaxuná, sometimes also spelled Yaxunah, is one of the most fascinating in the entire peninsula, but you are unlikely to find it in any guidebooks. This is because the site is under the custody of a local cooperative rather than that of the state or federal government.
Given the limited resources of Yaxuná’s custodians, visiting during different times of the year can feel like a very different experience, as during the rainy season, vegetation covers much more of the site, making it a little harder to get around. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazin
Archaeological and paleontological evidence points to small-scale settlements in Yaxuná as far back as the ninth century BCE, but the Maya city observable today reached its zenith sometime in the fifth century CE
Yaxuná is a tremendously fun site to explore, and because it’s pretty under-visited, you are likely to have it all to yourself. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Toward the end of the classical period in the sixth or seventh century, the mighty city of Cobá conquered Yaxuná and established it as a vassal kingdom.
The Nohoch Mul in Cobá is one of the tallest pyramids in the Maya world and a testament to its influence. However, its distinctive architectural features have been badly eroded and pillaged over the centuries. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Cobá built an extensive road or sacbé to connect the two cities over 100 km. The construction of this project is attributed to Queen K’awiil Ajaw, who ruled over the powerful city-state for over 40 years.
The first few kilometers of the sacbé that connects Yaxuná with Coba have survived the ravages of time remarkably well and serve as an example of just how impressive the road networks of the Maya were. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
One of Yaxuná’s most exciting structures is a four-level rounded structure believed to be an astronomical observatory.
Astronomical observatories were relatively common in ancient Mesoamerica. They were used to track the seasons and the movements of celestial bodies, several of which, a handful, like the moon and Venus, had ritual calendars of their own. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Within the same section of the site, there is also evidence of a structure believed to have once served as a central meeting point for trade coming in and out of the city via the sacbé.
Moving west is a relatively large step pyramid, with empty niches that were likely once adorned with stucco masks and painted bright red. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Further north, one comes into Yaxuna’s central acropolis, home to several exciting structures, including a Mesoamerican Ball Court, a courtyard flanked by large artificial platforms, and the remains of a handful of vaulted structures.
Yaxuná’s ballcourt may not be particularly large by the standards of other sites like Yaxhá or Copán. However, it is still exciting, especially given its prominent location within the ceremonial center. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
One of the most interesting aspects of this site section is that it combines elements of Izamaleño and Puuc architecture in unique ways, especially in structures like the Popol Nah, or “house of the war council.”
One of the most emblematic features of the Popol Nah is the many carved reliefs of warriors and geometric designs along its base, which also include what is likely a unique depiction of a noble with his eyes closed. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
At the Popol Nah, a “ritual of termination” was held after Yaxuná lost a major war against Chichén Itzá. Presumably, this ritual involved the execution of several of the city’s elite, as well as the demolishment of several structures representative of the prior regime.
The Popol Nah is by far the best-preserved structure at Yaxuná and still even has a handful of intact chambers, along with several collapsed corbel arched rooms. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
There are also the remains of several other vaulted structures atop surrounding artificial platforms, though these are badly damaged.
This complex running adjacent to the Popol Nah was likely among the structures destroyed during the Itzá ritual of termination as a way to assert their power over the conquered city. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
A bit further west is an interesting slopped structure labeled on some older maps as the “king’s tomb,” though details about this alleged burial site or the reason for its odd configuration are hard to come by.
The “king’s tomb” at Yaxuná resembles a handful of other classical era structures at stiles like El Caracol in Belize, though on a smaller scale. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Within the same complex, it is also possible to spot a very Puuc-looking structure, which served as a steam bath, a common feature in large Mesoamerican cities.
Unlike the concave steambaths of Nahuatl peoples, the Maya utilized much more conventional structural designs, which were then likely covered with the hides of animals to keep the heat from escaping. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
At the northmost point of the central plaza sits a giant step pyramid complete with interior chambers and a multi-level staircase leading to a now-destroyed altar at the very top.
Yaxuná’s most significant step pyramid must have been quite the sight in its heyday, as evidenced by its elaborate maze of rooms and chambers running within it. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Like many muti-terraced step pyramids in the Maya world, it is not possible to reach the top levels from ground level.
Though it is possible to climb this pyramid, one would be wise to exert great caution as several stepping stones are somewhat loose and are often slippery. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
If you do decide to climb this structure, avoid entering chambers marked as off-limits. The signs are there for good reason.
Aside from generally being a stupid idea, pushing your luck and entering sections of ancient temples blocked off can get you into plenty of trouble. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
If you go
There are a couple of ways to get to Yaxuná, but the most direct is to take a 20-mile detour south of Pisté.
There are a few different ways to get to Yaxuná, but at some point, they all involve relatively narrow roads. Map: Google Maps
On the other hand, if you are feeling a little more adventurous on your way from Mérida, take the exit south at Libre Union for a more colorful drive, which includes passing through Yaxcaba, its cenote, and fascinating caste war era garrisons as well as 19-century casonas.
A Catholic chapel atop an ancient structure in the town of Yaxcabá on the way to Yaxuná. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
The entrance fee to Yaxuná is 100 pesos (or roughly US$5). The site has ecological bathrooms, but soap or disinfectant gel is often nowhere to be found, so maybe bring your own (never a bad idea when traveling in the countryside).
Eroded depiction of a warrior with likely Toltec artistic influence carved into the base of Yaxuná’s Popol Nah. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yuctán Magazine
Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
