Over the past few years, the Mexican state of Oaxaca, and especially its capital, Oaxaca de Juárez, has experienced a boom in tourism. The city boasts amazing markets, restaurants, architecture, and a wellspring of indigenous culture.
The largest indigenous group in Oaxaca are the Zapotecs, who, like the Maya to the south and the Mexica to the north, built grand ancient stone cities, several of which are open to the public. So let’s get started.
Monte Albán
Though not as famous as archaeological sites like Chichén Itzá in Yucatán or Teotihuacán in Mexico State, Monte Albán is among the most impressive ruins in all of Mexico.
Despite its antiquity, Zapotec culture developed during a time of great cultural exchange with other Mesoamerican peoples, including the Olmec, Teotihuacanos, and even Maya.
Monte Albán is also home to one of the most elaborate burial sites in Mesoamerica, known as Tomb 7.
Getting to Monte Albán from Oaxaca de Juárez is easy, as the site is just five miles away. Several tour companies include Monte Albán as part of an all-day itinerary. Still, you are better off going on your own via taxi (between 150 and 200 pesos) to avoid being rushed.
The Eastern Route (From Dainzú to Mitla)
Several ruins can be found within 30 miles east of Oaxaca de Juárez along the carretera internacional. Since these ruins are all so close to each other, visiting the four archaeological sites open to the public on this route is doable, especially if you hire a driver for the day.
Dainzú
Established in the 7th century BCE, Dainzú was already going strong for centuries by the time of the founding of Monte Albán.
During archeological excavations atop Dainzú’s upper terrace, researchers discovered four rooms with slightly slanted walls covered in large carved stones known as the “relief gallery.”
Lambityeco
The Zapotec city of Lambityeco dates to the late Classical period and is known for its extraordinary artworks, including stucco masks and tombs.
The area surrounding Lambityeco had been occupied by Zapotec peoples for a thousand years but did not reach its zenith until the 5th century. But like virtually all settlements of the last Classical period onwards, the remains of Lambityeco demonstrate a high degree of influence from other cultures, mainly the Mixteca.
Yagul
Archaeologists believe that the area surrounding Yagul was likely first inhabited 3,500 years ago by semi-nomadic people loosely related to the Zapotec. Ultimately, they decided to permanently settle the site, likely in part thanks to innovations developed at other growing settlements like San José del Mogote.
Sometime in the 9th century, as power in the region began to shift from Monte Albán to Mitla, Yagul underwent an architectural transformation that appears to have introduced several elements prevalent in Mesoamerican societies, such as ballcourts.
Yagul was inhabited by Zapotec peoples well until the 16th century when Spanish conquistadors and Catholic evangelists began to overrun the area, forcing its inhabitants to flee into the mountains under the threat of Spanish steel.
Mitla
Sometime soon after abandoning Monte Albán, the Zapotec began constructing a new settlement today called by its Nahuatl name, Mitla, but was then known as Yooꞌ Baꞌ — the place of rest, or place of the dead.
Today, Mitla is in the middle of a town of the same name in Oaxaca, Mexico. Though the best-preserved and restored structures are within the federally protected archaeological site, temples and tombs can be found across the community in backyards and agave plantations.
Given its fame and proximity to the city of Oaxaca (30 miles), tours to Mitla are easy to find and usually also include a visit to the petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua and one or two textile shops.
Atzompa
The strongholds of the classical Zapotec in the mountains of what today is the periphery of Oaxaca de Juárez are among the most impressive in Mesoamerica. One such mountain stronghold and vassal of Monte Albán was the mighty Atzompa.
Entering the site, visitors encounter several large unrestored mounds and the remains of an elite residential complex known as La Casa de Oriente, or East House. Within the residence, archaeologists discovered a sizable interior patio containing a temazcal, or Prehispanic sauna.
Atzompa’s largest pyramid (Structure 5) has been pillaged extensively, leaving it bare of stucco everywhere except its base, but it is still quite a sight.
Zaachila
If you arrive at Zaachila knowing nothing about the site and take a quick look around, you may wonder what exactly is so special about this place. Sure, the surrounding Oaxacan town and its market are charming, but aside from the remains of a handful of pyramids — now turned into mounds littered with ancient pottery — Zaachila does not seem to have too much going on.
But to the very south of the site is something enticing: a pair of metal doors protruding from the ground. Upon closer inspection, a couple of staircases are visible, descending into subterranean vaults — or tombs, to be more precise.
The entrance to Tomb 1 is adorned with a design that archaeologists believe makes reference to a belief similar to that of the monster of the earth in the Maya religion. The frame of the doorway into the tomb retains most of its original bright red paint, which is stunning to see.
Once you have peered in, you will immediately begin to notice several stucco figures related to themes of death and the underworld in Mesoamerica folklore.
These are not the tombs of commoners. Tomb 1 is the final resting place of Lord 9 Flower, a direct descendant of the famous Zapotec king Cocijoeza, whose name translates as “storm of knives” and was famous for his many battles against encroaching Aztecs. Discovered inside the tomb were also the remains of Donaji, the last known Zapotec princess.
The best way to get to Zaachila is to take a bus or taxi from Oaxaca de Júarez, the state capital. The approximately 15-mile ride is picturesque, and if you opt for a taxi, it should not run more than 100 pesos.
San José del Mogote
A contemporary of several of the Olmecs’ most ancient settlements is the Zapotec ceremonial center of San José del Mogote. Founded around 1500 BCE, San José del Mogote is notable not only for its sheer antiquity but also for the size of its temples and inscriptions.
During the last half of the 1960s, research teams combed the region surrounding the highlands of Oaxaca. They discovered the remains of a proto-Zapotec civilization dating to the 9th millennium BCE, roughly 11,000 years ago. It is generally accepted that these proto-Zapotecs came into communication with the archaic Olmec and perhaps even the Maya of the Peten. In just a few generations, they spread ideas and technologies that would revolutionize the region.
During a recent visit to the site, a team of archaeologists working west of San José del Mogote’s largest structure appeared to be excavating a large duct. The archaeologists told me they were not at liberty to talk about what they were working on, but with a nudge and a wink, said, “This is going to be a rather big deal.”
