Even after 3,500 years, San José del Mogote never ceases to amaze
A contemporary of several of the Olmecs’ most ancient settlements is the Zapotec ceremonial center of San José del Mogote. Founded around 1500 BCE, San José del Mogote is notable not only for its sheer antiquity but also for the size of its temples and inscriptions.
During the last half of the 1960s, research teams combed the region surrounding the highlands of Oaxaca. They discovered the remains of a proto-Zapotec civilization dating all the way back to the 9th millennium BCE, roughly 11,000 years ago. It is generally accepted that these proto-Zapotecs came into communication with the archaic Olmec, and perhaps even the Maya of the Peten. In just a few generations, they spread ideas and technologies that would revolutionize the region.
For example, at San José del Mogote, we find the earliest evidence of Zapotec writing, or to be more specific, a glyph believed to signify “earthquake.” Artistic depictions of human figures at San José del Mogote also share a strong resemblance to much later renderings founds at Monte Albán, making it feasible to believe that this is where this style was first developed.
Regardless of the chronology and who influenced whom, San José del Mogote is also credited with the development of metallic ores, polished stone mirrors, and increases in crop productivity thanks to the mix of pot irrigation and the construction of ditches, all of which would pop up around the rest of Mesoamerica in the following centuries.
As San José del Mogote grew from a small village to a full-fledged city, it began to project its power and influence across the region, leading many to refer to it as the Zapotec’s first capital, preceding Monte Albán by hundreds of years, and Mitla by over a thousand.
Today the remains of San José del Mogote lay inside a small town of the same name on the outskirts of Oaxca’s capital city. Structures can be found along paved and dirt roads, as well as in backyards and nearby fields.
The site features two large elevated platforms or step pyramids, each topped with several other muti-room chambers. There is also evidence that some of these structures served as elite residences, signifying a high level of social stratification, even this early in Mesoamerican history.
Because these remains are not within a formal archaeological park, they are susceptible to damage by vandals and looters.
Though the remains of San José del Mogote are considerable, to say the very least, only two major structures have been restored, though this may change in the relatively short term thanks to ongoing work at the site.
During a recent visit to the site, a team of archaeologists working west of San José del Mogote’s largest structure appeared to be excavating a large duct. The archaeologists told me they were not at liberty to talk about what they were working on, but with a nudge and a wink, said, “this is going to be a rather big deal.”
If you go
If you decide to visit San José del Mogote, your best bet is to make your way by taxi from Oaxaca de Juaréz, only 10 miles away.
While there, it is also a good idea to visit the community museum, which exhibits several interesting archaeological finds and asks only for a small voluntary donation to enter.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer, adventure leader, and PhD candidate. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
