Xochicalco, the grand yet often overlooked heir of Teotihuacán
Xochicalco is perhaps the most underrated archaeological site in all of Mexico — and that’s saying something.
Arriving early in the morning on a Saturday, and staying for several hours, the only other people I encountered were a couple of birders near the parking lot and INAH guards.
Xochicalco is comparable in size to other important Mesoamerican archaeological sites such as Uxmal and features some truly breathtaking art and architecture.
In the Nahuatl language, Xochicalco translates as “the place of flowers,” likely a reference to the several species of flowering cacti found in the ancient city.
But don’t let its unassuming name fool you, during its heyday, Xochicalco was one of the great powers of central Mexico and the city which filled the power vacuum left by the fall of Teotihuacán
It is important to note that although Xochicalco’s name is undoubtedly Nahuatl, there are good reasons to believe that it was erected by a group of Maya who emigrated northwest into the valley of Mexico.
That being said, Xochicalco also exhibits features consistent with other cultures such as the Olmec. This makes a great deal of sense when we consider that as the heir of Teotihuacán, the city would absorb much of this great capital’s multi-ethnic population.
Xochicalco is of course not the only Mesoamerican city in Central Mexico that exhibits ample evidence of Maya influence and occupation, with another classic example being Cacaxtla, located in the state of Tlaxcala.
Given its great size and location near the Colonial city of Cuernavaca, Xochicalco has long held a fascination for lovers and antiquity, and unlike many other great Mesoamerican cities was never truly “lost”.
When entering the site from the parking lot, you will walk along a path leading to a large plaza flanked by structures on all sides, called La Plaza Inicial.
Right in the middle of La Plaza Inicial sits a platform with an estela with two other larger platforms framing it on each side.
Unlike Teotihuacán, plenty of hieroglyphic inscriptions survive to this day at Xochicalco.
To the southwest, and far below the artificial platform one is standing on it is possible to see Xochicalco’s largest Mesoamerican ballcourt.
Though this ballcourt is not open to the public, visitors can still get a really good view of it from the Grupo Inicial.
Making your way north from the Plaza Inicial, you will ascend several large stairways and notice many smaller temples and altars on this massive complex.
Following the same path is a large structure divided into four rooms that likely housed Xochicalco’s high priest.
This large complex known as El Templo de las Estelas takes its name from the four stelae found within.
From the vantage point of El Templo de las Estelas, it is possible to see an elaborately adorned structure just to the north.
Even if you think you know what to expect, your first glimpse of the Temple of the Feathered Serpent is likely to leave you speechless.
As its name would suggest, this temple is adorned with several enormous reliefs dedicated to the feathered serpent known as Quetzalcoatl in central Mexico and Kukulcán in the Mayan world.
Aside from these impressive renderings of Quetzalcoatl, it is impossible to not notice another recurring motif, that of a cross-legged lord, in full classical Mayan regalia.
The temple also features several other beautifully rendered elements such as cornices, hieroglyphic inscriptions, stone markers, and representations of other smaller human figures.
Just to the north of the Temple of the Feathered Serpent is a structure of similar dimensions, which likely was adorned in a similar fashion, but which for some reason or another did not survive nearly as well.
Moving east, we come along a section of Xochicalco commonly referred to as the eastern quadrant, which features serval interesting structures.
The largest and most striking of these is Xochicalco’s northern ballcourt, whose size is a testament to the importance of the ceremonial center — especially considering the site has another two similarly massive Teotlachitli complexes.
Like any other thriving metropolis, Xochicalco needed a large amount of water to survive. Irrigation systems and water canals can be seen throughout the city, but the most obvious example of this ancient water management system is the city’s several water storage cisterns.
There is also some archaeological evidence to suggest that these cisterns may have been used as pools for the city’s elite, though likely only during the rainy season.
Water in Xochicalco was also pumped into temazcales, which were a sort of steam baths popular among Mesoamerican peoples.
Some of the best-preserved stucco at Xochicalco can be found inside a chamber adjacent to the site’s largest cistern.
After you have completed your visit to Xochicalco, make sure you take some time to explore its fantastic onsite museum.
If you go
Xochicalco is 25 miles from Cuernavaca, the capital of the state of Morelos, and 75 miles from Mexico City.
It is likely that part of the reason Xochicalco is not more visited is that it’s not exactly easy to get to unless you have a car.
Despite its grandeur, finding organized tours to Xochicalco on short notice can be fairly tricky. Some tour agencies of Mexico City and Cuernavaca do offer day trips, but unless you have fellow travelers with whom to split the expenses this option can get quite expensive.
If you start to feel a little lightheaded on your way to Xochicalco, keep in mind that it’s because you are over 1,000 feet above sea level.
Though it’s possible to rent a car in Cuernavaca, this can get quite pricey as well. Your best bet is probably to ask around in Cuernavaca and try to find a taxi driver willing to take you to the site and wait while you explore.
The entrance fee to Xochicalco is 85 pesos and the site is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday through Saturday. On Sunday, admittance is free for Mexican nationals and foreign residents of Mexico with ID.
Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican expedition/Canadian photographer and adventure leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds multimedia, philosophy, and translation degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
