A ‘place of ancient temples’ awaits near the heart of Cuernavaca

A panoramic view of the central courtyard at Teopanzolco in Cuernavaca.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Cuernavaca is known as a popular weekend getaway destination for residents of México City.

Cuernavaca is a great getaway known for its laidback atmosphere, main plaza, and especially good mariachis.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

But aside from its charming plaza and historic downtown, the city is home to the remarkable archaeological site of Teopanzolco.

Aside from its stunning structures, Teopanzolco is full of mayflowers and several species of birds.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Meaning “the place of ancient temples” in the Nahuatl language, Teopanzolco was a major urban area during the late Classic and early Postclassic periods.

The archaeological site of Teopanzolco in Cuernavaca, Morelos. Graphic: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

However, evidence of human habitation and far more ancient structures have been excavated in the area, dating to roughly 2000 BCE.

A handful of artificial platforms at Teopanzolco exhibit double stairways, a feature common during the construction of structures in the region's Postclassic era.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The city of Teopanzolco features tributes and iconography making reference to several Mexica deities, including the god of rain, Tláloc; Tezcatlipoca, the god of night; and Ehécatl, the god of the winds.

Ensuring the preservation of The Temple of Ehécatl was no easy feat. But thanks to the conscientious work of many archaeologists and engineers, the structure is sure to survive for many more generations.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

But first and foremost in this ancient city was the cult of Huitzilopochtli, the famed god of war, also known as “the lefthanded hummingbird,” to which the largest pyramid at the site is dedicated.

The largest of the temples at Teopanzolco are dedicated to Echéatl, the god of the winds.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

In its layout and architecture, Teopanzolco resembles other cities or ceremonial centers of the same area, including Acozac near Nezahualcóyotl.

Large pyramid in Teopanzolco exhibiting a tablero talud type construction, common to the Postclassic period.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

This, of course, makes a lot of sense when we consider that the fashion of the day was to emulate the style of construction at the already ancient and mysterious city of Teotihuacán.

Teotihuacán’s avenue of the dead gets its name from the Aztec belief that the massive pyramids and temples lining its path were the tombs of ancient kings, lords and perhaps even deceased gods.Photo: courtesy

Despite the beauty of Teopanzolco, it is important to keep in mind that the structures found within the archaeological site are but a tiny fraction of what would have been visible during antiquity.

An Oxxo appears behind a temple in Teopanzoloco on the grounds of what was also part of the ancient city.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Moctezuma Ilhuicamina, the Fifth Tlatoani or Great Chief of the Mexica, conquered Teopanzolco, turning it into a vassal state before fully incorporating it into the Aztec Empire.

During antiquity, Mesoamerican temples were coved in stucco and painted in bright colors.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

If in Cuernavaca, the easiest way to get to Teopanzolco is to simply hail a cab or a ride-sharing service, though public transit is available.

The entrance to the archaeological site of Teopanzolco in Cuernavaca, Morelos.Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

From México City, Teopanzolco makes for a great stop when visiting other archaeological sites in Morelos, especially the magnificent Xochicalco.

Cuernavaca is just south of México city. Due to traffic, travel times between México City and Cuernavaca fluctuate between 1.5 to 3+ hours. Map: Google

Carlos Rosado van der Gracht

Senior Editor Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a journalist, photographer, and expedition leader. Born in Mérida, Carlos holds degrees from universities in Mexico, Canada, and Norway.