Chichén Itzá’s New Museum Chronicles Thousands of Years of History

The concrete facade of the Gran Museo de Chichén Itzá is underwhelming, though it is what is on the inside that counts. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Given its status as the most visited archeological site in Mexico, it has always been odd that Chichén Itzá has never had a museum like those at Tula, Xochicalco, or Monte Albán

One of several ornately decorated artifacts on display at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Regardless, the Gran Museo de Chichén Itzá is now open and features artifacts dating from the earliest occupation of the city to its heights under the rule of the Itzá.

Pottery from the Preclassic period is rare in Chichén Itzá and dates back to the 9th century BCE. It is much less ornate than what came later but is of great archaeological importance. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Even before entering the museum, it is possible to observe a handful of artifacts, including a Chac Mool and the head of Kukulkán — the mighty feathered serpent.  

One of the aspects that makes Chichén Itzá’s new museum different from several others in the region is that its collection is entirely made up of artifacts found onsite. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

As most people who pay any attention to Prehispanic art archaeology or art know, Chichén Itzá is likely the closest any city in the Maya region came to truly being an imperial capital. Its imposing and frankly intimidating architecture is full of skull motifs and symbols of war like the Almena. 

The Almena is a symbolic architectural element prominent in Chichén Itzá and is a type of shield and crossed weapons forming an “x.” You don’t exactly have to be an art historian to get the point.  Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The museum allows visitors to examine recently excavated artifacts and famous ones that have not seen the light of day for decades.

A gorgeous incense burner featuring the image of a bird wearing adornments was unearthed in Chichén Itzá. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

An example of the former is a stone disk adjacent to Chichén Itzá’s Casa Colorada Complex Ballcourt. This stone disk, described as a “Mayan scoreboard,” made waves across international headlines last year. The confusion over its utility as some kind of scoreboard likely stemmed from a translation error. The word marcador in INAH’s Spanish-language press release can mean “scorekeeper.” But the word can also be used to make reference to a particular location, as in “X marks the spot.”

The disk is 9.5 centimeters thick, with a diameter of 32.5 centimeters, and weighs roughly 40 kilograms. Sculpted into circular stone is a scene depicting two players wearing ceremonial regalia. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Also on display is a carved stone lintel or beam found in Chichén Viejo’s Series inicial complex and held up by two “atlantes.” Lintels were often carved on multiple sides by the Maya, but what makes this particular artifact special is that among its glyphs is the date of its erection and placement, June 29, 869, which proves that the constructions at this part of the site far predate the vast majority of temples at the “main” site in Chichén Itzá. 

The lintel of la Serie inicial was discovered in the 19th century, and it remained on site for ages. It was removed for preservation purposes sometime in the 1990s. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Speaking of Chichén Viejo, another artifact on display at the new museum is a necklace discovered as an offering among the remains of human bodies underneath the site’s two-headed turtle platform.

This over 150-stucco piece necklace would have been of considerable value. Combined with the burial location, it suggests that the deceased must have been of extremely high status. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Other examples of Maya jewelry can be found on display throughout the exhibit. Unlike the Zapotec region dominated by Monte Albán, the Yucatán has no natural deposits of gold or silver, so most jewelry is carved out of shells, semi-precious stones, or bone. 

The artifacts on exhibit at the Gran Museo de Chichén Itzá were all found at the site and include finds from recent excavations. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though much less refined, the exhibit also displays archaic-era pottery, which could date as far back as the 8th or 9th century. This kind of pottery is important as it drives home the point that Chichén Itzá, then known by a name lost to time, had a considerable population and megalithic architecture, well over a millennia before the groups which would most forge its identity and look we are familiar with today, namely the Itzá from Guatemala, and the Toltec and Mixteca from the valley of Central Mexico. 

Like many ancient Mesoamerican cities, Chichén Itzá went through several periods of occupation and domination by different cultures — shrowding its true origins in mystery. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

At the museum, it is also possible to observe artifacts from distant lands such as Guatemala, which proves the Chichén Itzá was not only a hub of conquest and warfare but also trade.

Finding goods from other regions in Mesoamerica at archaeological sites is not uncommon and helps to paint a picture of just how economically integrated the region was. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

It is often said that Chichén Itzá, or at least its most famous structures like the pyramid of Kukulkán, the Temple of a Thousand Warriors, and the Grand Ball Court, are more examples of Toltec architecture than truly Maya. There is undoubtedly truth to this. The influence of the Toltecs and other groups from central Mexico, like the Mixteca, are evident throughout the site.

A tile from a Tzompantli or skull rack of Mixteca origin on exhibit at the Gran Museo de Chichén Itzá. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Several artifacts and architectural features display animals sacred to the Maya, such as jaguars, turtles, rabbits, and birds.

The depiction of a bird, likely a macaw, is carved into an architectural feature in Chichén Itzá. Photo: Carlos Roado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

No animal was more sacred to the ancient Maya than the mighty jaguar, symbolizing otherworldly power and awe. As a result, depictions of jaguars are ubiquitous in art and as symbols of power and status. In Mesoamerica mythology, the jaguar can traverse both the worlds of the living and the dead. 

The desire of elites in Mesoamerica to associate themselves with jaguars and their supernatural powers means that objects like jaguar thrones are pretty common. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Aside from all of the original artifacts on display at the museum, there are also several interesting exhibits featuring reconstructions of areas of Chichén Itzá, now off-limits.

A maquette displays different phases and eras of construction of the now world-famous pyramid of Kukulkán, also known as El Castillo. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Before climbing the pyramid of Kukulkán and exploring its interior was disallowed nearly two decades ago, it was possible to explore an interior chamber famous for its red jewel-encrusted jaguar throne and Chac Mool. 

Though the reproductions of the red jaguar throne and Chac Mool inside the pyramid of  Kukulkán are not as splendid as the real thing, they are still quite the sight to behold. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Reproductions found in the interior of the temple aside, the most interesting part of this specific exhibit is the care with which archaeologists recreated the temple that houses them, allowing visitors to take in the beauty of its facade.

Jaguars, shields, and sun iconography are some of the most dominant elements featured on the temple within the pyramid of Kukulkán, which visitors can now appreciate through its reproduction at Chichén Itzá´s museum. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

The amount of fascinating artifacts at the El Gran Museo de Chichén Itzá is too extensive to list, much less describe. But we can say with conviction that it will not disappoint. 

Known as the Grand Stone of Chichén Itzá’s Great Ballcourt, the exact role of this artifact is uncertain. However, it is widely believed that it sat at the center of the “field of play” and served as a starting point for the ceremony known in the Yucatec-Maya world as Pok ta Pok. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

If you go

While it is technically possible to visit the Gran Museo de Chichén Itzá via the Tren Maya, this option is, at the moment, much more difficult than one would expect

The Chichén Itzá Tren Maya station is operational but not ready for primetime. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Your best bet is to drive there yourself as there is plenty of parking. Taxis from Chichén Itzá and the nearby town of Pisté are not allowed into the area, though this will likely change.

Despite what the promotional material would have you believe, the Tren Maya station does not run directly to Chichén Itzá but rather several kilometers away. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Though the museum itself is open, the rest of the complex surrounding it is still under construction, so don’t expect to buy a snack or even water. Currently, the museum is not charging admission, but this will likely change and either require a stand-alone ticket or proof of purchase of a ticket to Chichén Itzá.  

Dozens of workers can be seen working at the large complex surrounding Chichén Itzá’s new museum. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine

Several people at the museum mentioned that the plan is to connect the entire complex to Chichén Itzá itself through a path that would begin at the Sacred Cenote. As this path would cut straight through the jungle, the distance would be cut dramatically, making it possible to walk back and forth. 

A rumored path will connect Chichén tItzá with its museum and other amenities, such as new shops and restaurants. Photo: Carlos Rosado van der Gracht / Yucatán Magazine
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Carlos Rosado van der Gracht
Born in Mérida, Carlos Rosado van der Gracht is a Mexican/Canadian blogger, photographer and adventure expedition leader. He holds degrees in multimedia, philosophy, and translation from universities in Mexico, Canada and Norway.
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